A Baroque garden invisible from the street, the only Cubist café in the world, a metronome on Stalin’s plinth, David Černý’s art that confuses emergency services, and a Cold War shelter open one Saturday a month
The standard version of Prague — castle, bridge, clock, Jewish Quarter — is genuinely excellent and worth your time. But it is also a circuit that 8 million tourists a year complete in roughly the same order. The Prague that exists outside that circuit is not hidden in any dramatic sense. It is simply not pointed at. A Baroque garden that sits directly off one of Malá Strana’s busiest streets but looks like a private driveway. Sculptures that look so real that emergency services have been called. A working vineyard inside the city limits. A Cold War nuclear shelter that opens its doors one Saturday a month for free. None of these places require effort to reach. They require only the decision to look slightly past what is immediately obvious.
1 — Vrtba Garden: The Baroque Garden That Looks Like a Private Driveway
Karmelitská is one of the main streets through Malá Strana — the Lesser Town below the castle. Thousands of people walk it every day, passing number 25, which looks like the entrance to a private apartment building. A gate, a courtyard beyond it. Nothing to suggest what is inside. Most people walk past.
Push that gate open, walk through the courtyard, and climb the stairs to the right. You enter a 3,000 square metre terraced Baroque garden built in the 1720s for Jan Josef, Count of Vrtba, Chancellor of Prague Castle. It rises in three platforms up the slope of Petřín Hill, connected by wide staircases lined with statues of ancient gods — Apollo with a bow, Diana with a dog, Juno with a peacock — all carved by Matyáš Bernard Braun, the same sculptor who made the originals on Charles Bridge. At the top, a Baroque pavilion with views across the Lesser Town rooftops to St. Nicholas and the castle beyond. The garden is listed as part of the Prague UNESCO World Heritage Site. On a weekday morning in May or September, you may have it entirely to yourself.
The garden closed during Communism and fell into disrepair for over a decade. It was restored between 1990 and 1998 and reopened to the public in June 1998. The fresco in the Sala Terrena — the vaulted room linking the palace and the garden — depicts Venus and Adonis and is original. The garden is open April through October only; it is closed in winter.
2 — The Cubist City: The Only Cubist Café in the World and a Lamppost Nobody Notices
Cubism — the art movement associated with Picasso, with Paris, with the early twentieth century — produced architecture in exactly one city in the world: Prague. Between 1911 and 1914, a group of Czech architects applied Cubist principles to buildings: angular surfaces, prismatic volumes, geometric decoration. Then the First World War ended the experiment. The buildings remained.
The most important is the House of the Black Madonna on Ovocný trh, completed in 1912 by architect Josef Gočár at the age of 31. It was built as a department store, replacing a Baroque building, and its construction was controversial — the Gothic and Baroque Old Town surrounding it did not obviously want a Cubist building in its midst. The result is remarkable: a building that is unmistakably modern while being entirely in sympathy with its surroundings, its angular concrete surfaces playing against the curves and ornament of its neighbours. Inside, on the first floor, is the Grand Café Orient — the only Cubist café in the world, closed for eighty years and restored in 2002 from black-and-white photographs of the original. Every detail is Cubist: the chandeliers, the coat racks, the furniture, the staircase banister (which Gočár designed in the shape of a light bulb). The pastries are made in cubist shapes. The espresso cup carries the café’s Cubist logo. Sitting in the Grand Café Orient is one of those experiences that is difficult to describe and immediately obvious in person.
Ten minutes’ walk away, at Jungmannovo náměstí behind the functionalist Baťa building, stands the only Cubist street lamp in the world — designed by Emil Králíček in 1913. Made of reinforced concrete, it is geometric and angular in a way that no lamppost anywhere else in the world is. Most people walk past it every day without registering what it is.
3 — David Černý’s Prague: The Art That Confuses Emergency Services
David Černý is the most internationally known Czech visual artist alive, and his work is distributed across Prague in a way that rewards deliberate attention. The problem is that most of it is placed at heights or in locations that make it invisible to people who are not looking for it.
The Hanging Man (Husova Street, Old Town): A life-size figure of Sigmund Freud hanging by one hand from a pole twenty metres above the street, his other hand in his pocket, apparently not very concerned about his situation. The sculpture has been mistaken for an actual suicide attempt multiple times — in Prague, in Chicago, in Seoul — and emergency services have been called on each occasion. It is located at the junction of Na Příkopě and Husova, near Národní třída metro. Unless you look directly up at the right moment, you will walk underneath it without seeing it.
Upside-Down Horse (Lucerna Passage, Wenceslas Square area): Enter the Lucerna passage from Štěpánská or Vodičkova. Look up at the domed ceiling. A gilded horse hangs from it, upside down, dead, with St. Wenceslas — patron saint of Bohemia, national symbol — seated on top. Directly below, and visible through the arcade windows, is the official equestrian statue of St. Wenceslas on the square. Černý placed his version in direct visual relationship with the official one. The passage is a working shopping arcade. People walk through it every day without looking up.
Urinating Men (Kafka Museum courtyard, Malá Strana): Two bronze men standing in a pool shaped like the Czech Republic, urinating. The stream writes real-time quotes from famous Prague residents. You can text a number shown on a nearby sign and the figures will write your message. Located in the small courtyard just outside the Franz Kafka Museum on Cihelna — a two-minute walk from Charles Bridge. Almost no one goes into the courtyard.
Crawling Babies (Kampa Island + Žižkov Tower): Three bronze babies with barcode faces crawl through the grass of Kampa Island park — the same figures that climb the Žižkov TV Tower, but at ground level, touchable, frequently climbed. Also worth knowing: the Žižkov Tower’s ten babies were originally temporary (installed 2000), became permanent because nobody wanted them removed, then had to be replaced in 2019 when the originals deteriorated — the new ones are heavier at 350kg each and measure 350cm long.
4 — The Metronome on Stalin’s Plinth: The Most Pointed Statement in Prague
From the terrace at the western end of Letenské sady — the park above the river on the Prague 7 side — there is a view down to the Old Town, Charles Bridge and the castle that is one of the best in the city. Most people who find their way to it come for the Letná beer garden, which sits a few hundred metres further into the park and is one of the few places in Prague where you can drink an outdoor beer with a panoramic city view without also being in a tourist context.
On the terrace itself: a large metronome, swinging slowly. And underneath it: a granite plinth that once carried the largest Stalin statue ever built. 14,200 tonnes of stone. 17 metres tall. Visible from across the city. Unveiled May 1, 1955, in a ceremony attended by the entire Communist leadership. The sculptor, Otakar Švec, committed suicide the morning of the unveiling — reportedly having seen the finished work completed and feeling that it was not what he intended, combined with the pressure of the commission and the political environment in which it was made. The statue stood for seven years before Khrushchev’s de-Stalinisation campaign made it politically necessary to demolish it. The plinth was too large to remove.
The metronome was installed in 1991 — not a permanent sculpture but a deliberate response to what had stood there before. Time moving forward, ticking, replacing the fixed and immovable image of the dictator. The underground space inside the plinth, once used as a food warehouse and later briefly as a skating rink, currently sits unused. The position of the original statue — looking directly down to Old Town, commanding the view — was chosen specifically to make Stalin’s presence visible from as much of the city as possible. Standing where the statue stood and looking down tells you something about the intention of it.
5 — Grébovka: A Working Vineyard Inside the City, With an Artificial Cave
The Vinohrady district — whose name means “the vineyards” in Czech — was named for the vineyards that covered this hillside before the city expanded to absorb it. One of those vineyards is still there. Havlíčkovy Sady, known to locals as Grébovka, is a park in Vinohrady with a working 1.7-hectare vineyard planted with eight grape varieties. The harvest in September is a public event — you can watch, and in some years participate in, an urban grape harvest in a park that is a 15-minute tram ride from Old Town.
The park itself is worth the visit independently of the vineyard. It was designed in the 1870s for a wealthy merchant named Moritz Gröbe, who reportedly moved 60,000 cartloads of earth to create the landscaping. In the hillside: an artificial cave (gloriet), carved from the rock, with a decorative facade featuring mythological figures. Inside, the space was used for parties and now functions as a wine bar during warmer months. The Italian Renaissance villa in the park — Gröbovka villa — is privately run and hosts events. The wine grown in the vineyard is bottled under the Vinohrady brand and some of it is available for purchase at the park’s wine pavilion.
6 — Břevnov Monastery: The Oldest in Bohemia, With a Working Baroque Brewery
Břevnov Monastery was founded in 993 AD by Prince Boleslav II and Bishop Vojtěch (later St. Adalbert) — the oldest Benedictine monastery in Bohemia, containing the oldest confirmed written reference to brewing in the country. The current Baroque complex was built by the Dientzenhofer father-and-son duo between 1708 and 1745 — the same architects responsible for St. Nicholas Church in Malá Strana. The church of St. Margaret at Břevnov is one of the finest Baroque interiors in the city and receives a fraction of the visitors that St. Nicholas does.
The monastery was seized by the Communists in 1950, converted to use by the state security services, and returned to the Benedictine community after 1989. The monks have since restored much of the complex including the library, the crypt, and the chapter house (the oldest surviving Romanesque space in Prague, from the 11th century). In 2011 they reopened a brewery in the former Baroque stables — the first monastic brewery at Břevnov since the 18th century, producing a pale lager and a dark called Markéta after the patron saint of the church.
Twelve monks currently live and work at Břevnov. The complex is 20 minutes by tram from Old Town (tram 22 direct from Malostranské náměstí to Břevnovský klášter). Guided tours of the abbey run on weekends and cover the Baroque halls, the chapter house and the crypt.
7 — The Paternoster Lifts: A Continuous Loop of Open Cabins, No Doors, No Stopping
A paternoster is an elevator with no doors and no stopping mechanism — a continuous chain of open cabins moving in a loop, up one side and down the other. You step into a cabin as it moves past, ride it to your floor, and step out before it continues. The cabins move slowly enough that this is not difficult. The name comes from the resemblance to the continuous loop of beads on a rosary.
Paternosters were widespread in European municipal and office buildings in the first half of the 20th century and have mostly been replaced by conventional lifts. Prague has over thirty still in operational use — the highest concentration in any European city. The most accessible for a visitor is in the New Town Hall (Nová radnice) on Mariánské náměstí, a public building in Old Town that also houses the Franz Kafka statue on its exterior (not the Černý one — a different, official statue by Jaroslav Rona, showing Kafka riding on the shoulders of an empty suit). The paternoster operates during office hours and is used by building staff daily. Walk in, ride it, step out. It is one of those urban experiences that is entirely ordinary to people who use it regularly and entirely remarkable to everyone else.
8 — The Folimanka Shelter: A Cold War Bunker Under a Park, Open One Saturday a Month
Folimanka is an ordinary municipal park in Nové Město (New Town) — sports pitches, paths, benches, a small hill. Under it is a Cold War-era civilian defence shelter, built in the 1950s as part of Czechoslovakia’s civil defence infrastructure: the network of facilities intended to shelter citizens in the event of military attack or nuclear war. The Folimanka shelter is one of the best preserved of these facilities still accessible to the public in Prague.
The shelter opens on the first Saturday of each month, from 10am to 4pm. Entry is free. A volunteer guide leads visitors through the original space — the ventilation systems, the dormitory areas, the emergency broadcast setup, the decontamination facilities. The equipment is largely intact and original. The context: this is not a military facility but a civilian one, designed to protect ordinary residents of the surrounding neighbourhood. Understanding that distinction — who was protected, who was expected to survive, what the practical plan for the population was — is one of those moments where Communist-era history becomes concrete rather than abstract.
9 — Jerusalem Synagogue: Moorish Meets Art Nouveau, Three Streets From Wenceslas Square
Prague has six surviving historic synagogues. Five are in Josefov, the Jewish Quarter, and are visited by most tourists to the city. The sixth is in the New Town, three streets from the top of Wenceslas Square, on a side street called Jeruzalémská. Almost nobody visits it.
The Jerusalem Synagogue — also called the Jubilee Synagogue, built in 1906 to mark the 50th anniversary of Emperor Franz Josef’s reign — is the largest synagogue in Prague and architecturally unlike anything else in the city. Its facade combines Moorish elements (horseshoe arches, geometric tile work, the polychrome brickwork of Islamic Spain) with Viennese Art Nouveau (floral motifs, stucco ornament, the colour palette of the Secession). The combination should not work as well as it does. The interior is equally extraordinary — the decorative painting programme covers every surface in geometric and floral patterns. The effect is closer to the Alhambra than to anything you would expect to find in Central Europe.
The synagogue is a functioning place of worship and a cultural monument. It is open to visitors from April through October. Entry costs CZK 120. On a weekday afternoon there is frequently no queue at all. The contrast with the Josefov synagogues — which require a combined ticket, often involve waiting, and are dense with tourist infrastructure — is significant. The building is ten minutes’ walk from Old Town Square.
Continue Exploring Prague
- Best Things to Do in Prague — the full activities guide including mainstream and off-circuit
- Prague for First-Timers — how to structure a visit that includes more than the standard circuit
- Prague Communist History Guide — the full context for Letná, Folimanka and the Soviet period
- Jewish Quarter Guide — for context before visiting the Jerusalem Synagogue
- Vyšehrad Guide — another place most visitors skip, with real depth
- Wenceslas Square Guide — the Jerusalem Synagogue is a five-minute walk from here
- Prague Districts Guide — Vinohrady (Grébovka), Žižkov (TV Tower), Břevnov and the rest
- Best Hotels in Prague — where to stay near these locations
- Prague Public Transport Guide — all nine places are reachable by tram or metro
- 3 Days in Prague Itinerary — how to fit two or three of these into a short visit
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